Asia Mine

Dervish, by Tuncay Shevketoglu, Istanbul

Saturday, February 20, 2010

Sitting on the early morning banks of the Bosphorus, waiting for the Beylerbeyi Palace museum gates to open; it was built in the 1860s for Sultan Abdul Aziz, and apparently still serves a good breakfast, which I’m looking forward to!

A huge Turkish flag, red with a white crescent and star, is flying overhead; the sky is grey again, unlike sunny yesterday. The Golden Gate-ish Bosphorus Bridge sails over the palace from this side, Asia, to that side, Europe. My hostess, Neshe, says she is “Asian inside, European outside”, and that’s how Istanbul feels to me. (And hey, I’m in Asia!!! New continent for me, yay!!)

I spent my first day in Istanbul going to work with Neshe. She teaches English at a Muslim parochial high school. Mostly all-girls classes, but we “guest-taught” in a boy’s class once, too, at my request. Most of the girls in headscarves, everyone in uniforms, entire bodies covered; no makeup, little jewelery. An odd mix of rowdy and respectful, standing for the teacher at start of class, yet shouting and chattering often. Extremely excited to practice their English with me, to ask me the questions they’d prepared, and for me to enjoy the feast they’d all made and brought from home, a surprise treat! And they performed for me: two girls on reed flute, one on a frame drum, and a very sweet young man, Mohammed, singing with beautiful skill and a quiet passion. My big gift to them: I taught them some American dance! A few contra moves, some waltz, some swing! They loved it, and now are calling me “Auntie Tina”, and writing me on Facebook, friends for life.

That night Neshe took me to her “whirling” class, the Sufi dervish dance practice. Four women and the assistant teacher, a man who marked the beat with a stick on the floor. We wore smooth leather booties, crossed our arms, and turned, very precisely, counter-clockwise. It looks so simple, but it was hard!

Yesterday I met Neshe after work and we went to the hamam, the Turkish bath. Bliss!! A great sauna, cold water and hot to dip and pour over, and an attendant gave me a scrub and a business-like massage. Lying around on the big, warm slab of marble for hours, chatting, looking up at darkening sky through air holes in the ancient dome. Feeling light and wonderful, we walked home under the moonlight, had a quick dinner, and then hurried off to a free concert of Turkish traditional music, a 4-piece ensemble that was wonderful.

And now I’m at breakfast in the palace cafe: enjoying my tiny cup of Turkish coffee, the stained-glass windows, marble walls, a display of the Sultan’s service ware. Later today I’ll ferry over to the European side and play tourist; tonight, meet friends of Neshe’s and her marbling teacher, whom she considers almost a guru.

I love this couchsurfing: so, so much better than touristing, especially as a solo. Instantly absorbed into the culture, companioned, and sharing so much more of myself than just my money. So I’m back on the road again, my restful Cyprus soliloquy over. The next month holds Athens, Venice, Florence, Rome, and Menorca!

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